From what I gather, Puerto Vallarta doesn’t have its own special art form such as the ceramics of Tonalá, the carved wooden creatures of Oaxaca, or the silverwork of Taxco. What they do have here, and what I don’t ever remember seeing, is artwork from the Huichol indigenous people. .
The Huichol are from the Sierra Madre Mountains in the states of Nayarit and Jalisco. (Puerto Vallarta is located in Jalisco.) I know almost nothing about them so will not try to write anything anthropological or historical.
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Most of their artwork in the stores is either colorful embroidery or beaded animal sculptures. The designs are symbolic of various animals and plants, each having a specific connection to their beliefs and culture.
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I’ve seen their work in just about every tourist shop in town. There are also several high-end, fancy stores that have beautiful examples, set out in lovely displays. They are the places that have Huichol men set up at a little “display” table at the front of the store doing their artwork. I find it disturbing. The prices are not cheap, which I wouldn’t mind if it were going to the people who created these exquisite objects; but you know it isn’t.
I had tried to find some stalls in the market where there might be artisans to whom the proceeds of the sales would go, but I hadn’t been successful. But then last week, on my way to the supermarket, I noticed a little corner shop of Huichol art and in I went.
Galeria de Arte Huichol is owned and operated by a man named Tzikiri. All the artwork is done by either himself or other people from his village. He told me how he used to work at the big stores demonstrating for the tourists. The store would also buy his work, for which he was paid very little. He opened his tiny corner shop a few months ago.
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In the past week I have been in several times and have bought a couple of beautiful iguanas. Tzikiri patiently explained the meanings of the designs and how he made them. He starts with either a ceramic or wood base, onto which a thick, sticky wax is applied. Then he carefully pushes each bead onto the wax creating the most amazing pieces.
I would have liked to have taken a picture of him at work but guessed that graven images probably were not acceptable in his culture. I asked him anyway. His hesitancy told me that I was correct in my assumption even though he told me it would be all right. What he minded, he said, were the tourists in the big stores who came in to take his picture while he worked and never bought anything and never left a tip.
I would have liked to have taken a picture of him at work but guessed that graven images probably were not acceptable in his culture. I asked him anyway. His hesitancy told me that I was correct in my assumption even though he told me it would be all right. What he minded, he said, were the tourists in the big stores who came in to take his picture while he worked and never bought anything and never left a tip.
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I am really hoping his shop makes it. I’m sure it would if only people knew about it. So here are the details for all of you who might be in Puerto Vallarta:
.Galeria de Arte Huichol - proprietor: Tzikiri
Constitución #116 (on the corner of 5 de Febrero) Col. Emilian Zapato, Puerto Vallarta
Tel: 322-222-5488 cell: 322-149-2005
It’s just past the Gutierrez Rizo supermarket on Constitición
Kate
Kate
