Restaurants aren’t really my thing. They are costly and often don’t thrill the taste buds so why bother? But I do like to sit at an outdoor café with a coffee and observe the world as it goes by. In Puerto Vallarta I’ve been rather at a loss to find a place where I can spend a bit of time and do just that.
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The only place I had found was, (shockingly to me), Starbucks. It’s in a great location at the corner of the main plaza and has comfy outside seating from where you can watch the people, the cars, and even a little bit of the bay. The regular coffee is a decent price and actually tastes better than any other coffee I’d had in town. And this brings up the question of what the heck happened to Mexican coffee? I know they had great coffee 20 years ago but I can’t seem to find it now.
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A week or so ago I was exploring another part of town when I came across the local witchcraft shop and went in for a look. Not in need of any spells cast or bad juju removed, I nevertheless had a nice chat with the owner. Somehow we got on to the subject of coffee and he told me about a new place just three doors down that made primo coffee. I finally got there yesterday.
Café D’Flores is a lovely small coffee shop that you might find anywhere in California, but would never to expect to find it here. Garlands of hand-painted flowers adorn the walls; the clouds and sun decorate the ceiling. With all the lovely wooden chairs and tables, a sofa and cozy chairs, I wasn’t sure where to sit and actually moved places twice. I was the only one in that morning, but I could see that it would be a welcoming place for people with books to read or with laptop work to do. And the coffee was superb. It’s only been open a few months, and is off the beaten track, so I do hope that the word gets out.
I spent a lot of time talking to the owner who, not surprisingly, had spent many years in California. He told me who when he’d landed in PV a few years ago he had stayed at the Rosita Hotel and how much he had liked it. So after I left the café I headed down to the Rosita.
I knew about the Rosita from when I was researching places to stay in PV. Seeing as it was right at the waters edge, and had been built in 1948, it had originally sounded interesting. But looking at the website pictures and at the prices, I had decided against it. And even now, looking at it from the street it just didn’t seem to draw one to it. But for historical reasons, it was the first big hotel in Vallarta, I had to take a look.
I knew about the Rosita from when I was researching places to stay in PV. Seeing as it was right at the waters edge, and had been built in 1948, it had originally sounded interesting. But looking at the website pictures and at the prices, I had decided against it. And even now, looking at it from the street it just didn’t seem to draw one to it. But for historical reasons, it was the first big hotel in Vallarta, I had to take a look.
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I spoke with the woman at the reception and found out rooms were US$80 a night, even now in
the low season. I then crossed the open courtyard and went into the open-air restaurant. I needed to eat, so asked to look at the menu. I was surprised to find that there were reasonably priced meals. I took a seat and ordered.
The first thing I noticed was that I could not only see that water I could hear it. In every other eating establishment that I have been, the ocean sounds have been obliterated by either traffic noise, blaring music, or a combination of the two. I didn’t have an unobstructed view of the bay, (there is a metal security gate), but it didn’t really matter. It was lovely and the food was darn decent.
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When I finished I asked if I could see one of the rooms with an ocean view. I was taken up to the second floor and let in. it was your basic, clean, 1948 room; nothing fancy, nothing really renovated since it opened, no ceiling fan, no A/C. (but there was a standing fan.) It had a little balcony from which you looked right out onto the water. The scent of the ocean, carried on a lovely breeze, streamed up into the room. It’s the type of place I would feel totally comfortable in; it’s much like what I am in now. But not at $80 a night. I don’t quite understand the pricing. I won’t ever stay there, but it is another good place to take a break and have a sip of something.
When I finished I asked if I could see one of the rooms with an ocean view. I was taken up to the second floor and let in. it was your basic, clean, 1948 room; nothing fancy, nothing really renovated since it opened, no ceiling fan, no A/C. (but there was a standing fan.) It had a little balcony from which you looked right out onto the water. The scent of the ocean, carried on a lovely breeze, streamed up into the room. It’s the type of place I would feel totally comfortable in; it’s much like what I am in now. But not at $80 a night. I don’t quite understand the pricing. I won’t ever stay there, but it is another good place to take a break and have a sip of something.
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The street that fronts the Malecón is lined with restaurants, night clubs, and tourist stores. It’s against my moral principles to eat at imported chain restaurants while overseas, so Bubba Gump’s and Hard Rock Café are off the list of choices to stop in for coffee. Last time I was on the strip I had a bad cup of coffee in a place that reeked of bathroom disinfectant, so I wasn’t going back there. A few places looked ok except that they have pushy barkers outside hassling you to come in, and then there’s the blaring rock music. So how could I have missed Las Polomas?
It sits on a corner with giant, open windows allowing you to look out at the bay. As their ad says, it is a “Hacienda” style restaurant, which I guess means that you feel like you are out at the ranch; lots of tile, wood ceiling beams, Mexican furniture and dishes.
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I grabbed the corner table on the lower floor, which is still far above street level. My first visitor was a pigeon looking for handouts. He came back several times while I sipped my ice coffee and couldn’t quite figure out why I didn’t have any food to offer. There was some music playing but it was so low, and the cars were so loud, that you didn’t notice it. The large plasma screen TV’s, for some reason, were also not distracting. Looking up at one I realized that this would be a great place to watch the World Cup. Bummer; I’ll be back in California.
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I took a look at their menu for future reference and I will not be going there for lunch any time soon. Too costly for me, although they do have a decently priced breakfast.
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I am pleased that I have found these new-to-me locations. Otherwise I tend to walk and walk until I’m close to heatstroke. I am also amazed that I have not only eaten in a restaurant, but now am on a mission to find other establishments in which to dine.
Kate
Kate
